Monday 7 October 2013

Leh, India, the roof of the world!


Leh is a major city located in the most northern state of India Kashmir and Jamul. This state borders both Pakistan and China and has been subject to many battles both for sovereignty and control.
Leh has a civil population of 70,000 people and an army population of 700,000. Geographically it is important; somebody told me that LEH stood for Life Ends Here.   Leh is situated in the Himalayas it is one of the world’s highest cities located above 3500 meters.  When we arrived at the airport I noticed a sign on the wall which was talking about altitude sickness which was possible for people above 10,000 feet, Leh is about 11,200 feet above sea level.
We got out of the airport and were met by a group of guys who were touting for business, I walked past them but Sandrine got caught in conversation with one and we ended up getting in his minivan type taxi to go to the hostel that I had booked for one night, on the way he introduced himself as Dowji, I thought he was not too dodgy but still the name was quite close. DJ was explaining that we could stay in a guest house of his or one of his cousins for 5-600 rupees a night, our hostel was costing 700 so I was interested.  When we got to our hostel he looked at it and said why did you book here, very far from anything and old and sometimes people here sometimes not… I looked at him then the place and I agreed… I said DJ show me one of your guest houses… five minutes later I was standing in a clean room with double bed and on suite bathroom with a small well-kept garden and views of mountains from the bedroom and bathroom windows, we settled on 600 rupees a night and said thanks to DJ. That’s when my headache started.
Altitude sickness does not affect everyone but is quite common none the less, for me it was a chronic migraine type headache which lasted for nearly 24 hours and kept me in bed for the same time.  In fact everyone is requested to rest for the first 24-36 hours once arriving at altitude.  One of the other guests staying in the house was a French couple they had some pills for altitude sickness, one type from France in a white box and instructions and the other type in a brown bag from a local monk.  I took the brown bag!  I took the brown balls that resembled rabbit droppings and crushed them into hot water and drunk the brew.  The taste was rather earthy but not unpleasant; however 5 minutes later I was running for the toilet and losing my stomach!  Whether or not they had any effect I have no idea but by morning I was feeling better.  Walking at altitude takes a little getting used to as there is less oxygen your body suffers.  Lili also caught a bug and was sick alongside me and then continued for several days after.  Of course we want her to get well but she is so calm when she is ill it is like having a little peace and relaxation that we normally do not get with her…
In Leh the people speak Ladachi and the most common word that you hear means hello, goodbye and thank you, this word is Jullay, what a great word it is!!  We spent the first week getting Lili better and just resting ourselves with short walks into town and early nights.  Leh is a small town mostly supported by tourism, the highlight of the week was the final day of the festival, this involved some speaking from politicians and dancing from locals dressed in traditional clothes… the clothes and dancing were great, the speeches were a little strange…

We had dinner in the house of DJ, with his sister, bother in law and nephew, Lili was looking quite weak and ill, so the boys took her and Sandrine off to the hospital, the doctor confirmed that there were plenty of people at the moment with this bug, gave us some medication and recommended to keep her hydrated with mineral salts and water, Lili refused to take her medication nor would she drink the salty water!! A couple of days later it was my turn to take her to the hospital as she still was suffering and we wanted to see the pediatrician.  I got to the hospital waited in line paid 2 rupees was given a piece of paper then stood outside the appropriate  office with 10-15 other parents, we all gave our slips of paper to a nurse, I waited 10 minutes under the curious scrutiny from all the other mothers and guess whose name they called first…mine… sometimes it helps to be a foreigner in India, I said sorry to the other parents as many were obviously in line before me, but hurried in past them no matter… I hate queuing!!  Doctor gave me a prescription for antibiotics but thought she was fine; Lili refused the medicine again…  Next day we took a day trip to Shay and a small village next to it where there was a Buddhist temple the monk gave us some medicine and asked us to return the next day which we did… Lili was almost back to normal, the monk told us not to worry she was fine… and she was… playing with the young boys who were staying at the temple and training as monks.

With Lili feeling better, we also started to enjoy Leh and enjoy the natural beauty of the place; the mountains are very dry and basically desert like. Leh is very remote and suffered from many power cuts which was fine but meant that you needed to carry a torch with you everywhere.

In Leh there was the Santi Stupa overlooking our house which is a Buddhist monument with pictures describing Buddha’s life, it also gave a great view of Leh and over to Leh temple which in its time was the highest building in the world!
 I kept asking the price of getting to Manali and how long it would take. Manali appeared to be the only way to get out of Leh before the potential of snow arrived… 16-18 hours on a minibus on a non-tarmacked road did not seem that much fun, but what were our options?
We went down to breakfast and found that the internet cafĂ© that served breakfast as well was without power so we decided to venture a bit further into town and came across another place which seemed cute, we went inside sat down but were unhappy of the small of diesel from the generator so went outside and sat at one of the tables there. There were some French people talking to a German lady, they heard Sandrine talking with Lili and Prunelle in French and soon started chatting, the conversation soon went onto what everyone was doing next and how we were getting there.  They it seemed were going to Kashmir in their own car a mere journey of 13 hours on a better road than to Manali… yes!!! They invited us to j

oin them on their journey…. Thank you Saqib and Melanie…

We said goodbyes to our host family that night who we had spent several dinners with and some good time learning about the region religion and languages.  Sandrine had cooked one of the meals she had learnt in Turkey; unfortunately I think she needs a little more practice... 

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