Sunday, 25 May 2014

South East Asia

So its been quite a while since the last time I wrote anything on this blog.  Part of that is due to laziness and part due to losing our camera over a waterfall.  The good news is we have a new camera and I feel inspired to write again and upload some pics.Yeah!

So Malaysia! Hot hot hot was the news and very dry.  We arrived at the end of February spent 3 nights in KL and were quite culture shocked after 5 months of India... capitalism in your face... giant shopping malls selling the latest everything... get me outa here now!!!   The one redeeming feature of KL for me was the magnificent Petronas towers, I had always wanted to see them and was not disappointed, although maybe I thought they would be taller..  We also stayed with some nice people in their spare room, thanks!
The twins!


Next stop was to Arafat's farm about 1 and half hours north of KL, kuala Selengar... Flat land situated next to an industrial unit cleaning metal pipes.  Arafat's dream; to convert this land into a successful organic farm which can be used as an educational platform to residents of KL. Our mission was to build a farm, we stayed in a tent for the first week and then moved into a converted shipping container.
Raised beds I tilled.

The water tank crew

Arafat and Lili


We learnt about the principles of organic farming and helped build banana circles, tree pits, raised beds, mulching, painting a water tank, making a dry compost toilet, cooking for a group, composting etc...

Arafat´s a great guy and the reason we stayed for a month. On one of our days off we went to a waterfall and suffered an accident.. the camera went over the waterfall plunging down never to be seen again... I felt lost.. so much of my time had been consumed using that camera,, what would I do.?

We decided to see a part of Malaysia to the north before going into Thailand.  We stayed at a small village name Semelling on a yoga retreat run by a nun.   The grounds were mixed with orchard, recreational grass areas and an organic farm.  The farm had been leased to a farmer for many years and was now being taken back...  much of the orchard was in bad condition and it was asked of me to research what was going on and to suggest remedies...  I had much fun searching the internet for solutions to some of their problems, and I hope that I solved some of them.  The place looked much nicer after we left and much greener as the rain arrived!!
Beach in Penang, most people were from Saudi Arabia!

Pergola and vine support that I made 

Banana Pit, permiculture 


Thailand.

We crossed the border between Malaysia and Thailand via the train border and stopped at the border town of Hat Yai and went straight o the beach town of... about 1 hour bus ride away.  When we arrived we had no idea where to sleep and wanted to avoid expensive hotels.. looking like lost tourists melting slowly under the hot afternoon sun, a car stopped and a young woman and her husband asked if they could assist us, we explained what we were looking for and they offered to take us to a few places to find somewhere to stay.  After about half an hour of stopping and starting we found a great hotel for a great price, we said goodbye and thanks to our good Samaritans and went to the beach!

We spent a few days there then moved to Koh Lanta on the west coast.  One of the best beaches I have seen on our trip and beautifully warm water.  We were staying at a workaway location, staying in a bamboo hut and doing a couple of hours work a day to cover our rent... it was nice and relaxed except for the constant mosquitoes and threat of Dengue fever which most people had!!  After 2 weeks it was time to go... our visa was only a 1 month one and so much to see!! We arrived on Koh Samui on the East coast, a place I had fond memories of from over a decade ago.. we stayed in the region of the big Buddha as my friend was living there whom i wanted to see. After the first day Sandrine got sick and Lili a little too... I thought cant be dengue if they both fever a same time.. but Sandrine thought it was so went and got her some Papaya leaves to make a drink which is supposed to help (tastes awful). Later that day I also started to feel feverish... so we had the dreaded Dengue fever...poor us... Lili was better after 2 days, me after three...Sandrine still felt bad...  Our friends that we met in India were on the next island so we decided to meet them, meant moving all luggage catching a boat, taxi etc... it knocked the stuffing out of Sandrine, she spent the next two days in bed.. myself and Lili chilled in the pool and did some snorkelling... moved again and this time Sandrine says take me to hospital... shes admitted and they confirm she has Dengue..  2 night later she is released and feels much better, a bit thin and weak but getting better..

Where we were volunteering 

Koh Lanta beach family

The Big Budha

Its time for a visa run!!  Off the islands onto the mainland, down the coast to Hat Yai, find a room, sleep! wake up find a cheap shared taxi to take us to border.. get new vias... ok.. so I tried to get into Thailand witout first going to Malaysia, it was hot, we had to walk about 1 km in the sun carrying Lili.. but border guard who had stamped Sandrines passport for a 14 day visa, says to me, where's your Malaysian stamps?  I said what you talking about fella?  He sends us packing and cancels Sandrines visa... we walk across to Malaysia get stamped in, walk around the other side, get stamped out and walk back to Thailand.. this time the guy stamps all our passports for a 30 day stay!! Great news... ok.. now back to Hat Yai, only two hours before our train leaves, rush rush, I look at the time on somebodies watch, shit we re going to miss out train its already 4 oclock, shit times goes fast when you dont need it to... get back to the hotel after we could not find it ande nobody spoke good English... surprise its only 3 o´clock, guys watch was showing Malaysian time one hour aheasd of Thailand time.. great relief... get to train station... trains late delayed 2 hours!!!! Time for a beer!
Ariive Bangkok after a night on the train... where are we going to stay... I suggest Limpuni park area as its nice and quiet.. no says the internet cafe guy, its full of protesters, go to koh san road like all the other tourists!!  So we do... Bangkok is not full of touristy things but it has some great markets, fun water ferries and great street food.  And they sell cameras at good prices with good selection...

Water taxi


Edge of street market

Bangkok street food

Sandrine was really feeling much better now so we wanted to get out of the city, where to go?  I had wanted to go to Chiang Mai many years before but had not, so I looked into our options... couch surfing turned up one host that sounded great, a lady named Carol, we contacted her and she accepted us!  Next day we are on the train to Chiang Mai, its the over night one with small beds, we chose fan class, which has a good price but was bloody hot, we kept popping into AC class which was like a fridge...you cant win!
Breakfast in the restaurant car was fun and soon enough we were arriving into Chiang Mai!


Sunday, 16 February 2014

Sadhana Forest Auroville

Our hut

Well what a month! We were not particularly looking for what we found, but were very happy that we did.  On arriving at Sadhana Forest we were surprised to see so many people, this was a big community, over 150 volunteers on the day we arrived, we had arrived just before lunch so sat down to relax after a 14 hour train ride and a morning in Pondicherry buying mosquito nets and negotiating with rickshaw drivers it was a most welcome time to relax in the main hut and just take it all in.

The hut started to fill up with people coming back from doing the various tasks that they had been doing for the past couple of hours and getting ready for lunch time.  The was the sound of a gong being stroke so to signal to everyone it was time to eat and please come to the main hut.  People cam round and gave you a plate of freshly made vegan food, you were asked not to eat your food until you were given an instruction, everyone starts eating together. Once everyone had been served food there were a few community announcements and then new volunteers were asked to announce their names to the room, after each name was said the entire room would repeat back your name followed by welcome, "Russell welcome!!!" Its a nice way to be introduced and quite powerful to have 150 strangers meet you all at once.

Lunch time

It was my first experience of vegan food, but tasted great and we were offered more in a particular way, once everyone had been served once, the left over food was taken around the room so that everyone could accept a second serving, then if more food was left, you could go up to a person responsible for serving and accept more food, as many times as there was food!!  Breakfast normally consisted of fruit and porridge, rice was a staple of the other meals, with a mixture of vegetables.  Sometimes we went into town to get a few extra things like milky tea and oil cooked foods, stuff that we missed basically, however in camp you were asked to respect the vegan way and refrain from bringing non vegan foodstuffs back onto camp and also processed foods. You were also not permitted to smoke, drink or take drugs for the entire period of your stay in the forest which meant both in the forest and any time that you were outside as well, we all signed an agreement to follow these rules.  So a proper detox! Not that hard really, and many people found it quite easy to quit smoking and hopefully will continue not to smoke if they chose to do so.
Having fun in main hut

After lunch we were given a camp tour by Julian, he showed us how things worked like the toilets; lets take a moment to put Sadhana Forest into perspective.  Its primary role is to reforest an area of Tamil Nadu that was heavily deforested when they arrived.  Rather than just plant trees which would have quickly died due to the arid conditions they instead focused on water conservation, building earth works to retain as much rainfall as possible so that it would both replenish the aquifer and promote the growth of trees.  So water conservation is at the very heart of Sadhana and so is sustainable living.  Ok so back to those toilets! Two holes, one for pee and one for poo, the poo goes into a hole with saw dust and creates a dry compost which can then be used to fertilise the land and the pee goes into a grey water recycling system where water comes out and can be used for watering the plants.  If you need to pee while you poo, you needed to catch the pee in a pee can and then add it to the pee hole afterwards!!  Everything is done with water that is in containers refilled everyday you take one scoop of water in a litre can and use as much as you need to wash yourself and leave the toilet clean for the next user, all the water goes in the pee hole.  Outside the toilet are wash stations were there is biodegradable soap and water, you use the soap the poor some water into a one litre can with a hole in the bottom which facilitates a dribble of water to fall that allows you to wash your hands from dirt and soap, it works, and uses very little water.

Sandrine uses hand wash


The showers and laundry employ similar principles, for both you take a metal bucket to the water pump in the kitchen, hand pump water into the bucket and then carry the bucket back to the shower room or laundry area, full buckets are quite heavy, so the less water you put in the easier your journey will be, most people fill the bucket quite full the first time for the shower and as they gain more experience as to how much water they actually need to be able to clean themselves they progressively take less water each time.  The system increases water use awareness.

Cooking for over 100 people is no mean feet and the kitchen teams were an integral part in the running of the community, everyone had their turn in the kitchen, usually it meant chopping vegetables but also things like grating coconuts, and of course cleaning.  One rule that helped the community, was everyone washes their own plate, which meant going to the wash station scraping any left overs into the compost bins and then using ash and a coconut scrub to clean your plate and leave it to soak in an iodine solution, sterilised for the next user!
The Kitchen and hand pump

Serving time

Community life as a volunteer meant working 25 hours a week plus community shifts, maybe 30 in total.  Everyone got up at 5.45 am with a morning call, we then assembled in the morning circle at 6.15 to do some stretches, sing a song, do some fun stuff followed by a hug from as many people as you could grab... now you were awake full of love and ready to give your body and soul to the Sadhana project for the next few hours!
Recycling hut

Tool shed meeting

View from morning circle to main dorm

Banana break


Morning Seva (Seva means to give one selflessly, its a Hindu word) meant either going to Kitchen to prepare breakfast or go to the forest to do stuff for the trees.  I preferred to go the forest, there we chopped down Acacia trees which were now treated as invaders, and then dug holes to retain water and planted a tree in the soil that we had just dug up, then we placed leaves from the acacia trees (Mulch) on the mounds to protect the new tree from Sunlight, finally a drip water irrigation bottle was inserted into the mound.  This process was repeated.  Another team would be watering plants and re mulching trees from previous years. The plan was to replant species of tree that had been deforested and thus return the area to an indigenous forest, we had to remove the Acacia tree that had been used as pioneer species to regenerate the soil and add biomass to the area, which they had done successfully, but they are not a native species and out compete all the indigenous species, so have to be removed.

Water conservation with Avaram the founder



Coming back from forest seva



Newly planted trees with their own ditch and water bottle!



Life in Sadhana is truly a unique experience, not just so that you can learn water irrigation techniques but also how to cook for 150 people, how to live sustainable, how to reforest an area, how to live in a community, how to recycle waste and use less, how to make new friends, how to get up early and feel good about going to work, how to have a lot of fun plus many other things.

If Sadhana forest is judged by anything or anyone it has to be a success, both for growing people and for the success of a living ecosystem which is resplendent in fauna and flora.
Asian Paradise flycatcher



Purple Sunbird

Coppersmith Barbett

Brown Shrike



Auroville is the international town that Sadhana forest is associated with, it is an ongoing project with some success.

Giant golf ball with centre for meditation inside.

Saturday, 11 January 2014

Kerala State, backwaters, hillstations and beaches

The last month we have spent in Kerala a state that gives itself the description of gods own country.  It certainly is green and diverse in its ecology.  The men here tend to wear the traditional dress and when we were in Varkala everyone was dressed in yellow for a religious festival being held.

The backwaters are a vast network of rivers streams lakes that stretch across many areas of the state.  The state also has a mountain range named the western Ghats, on this range many hill stations exist where tea, coffee, cardamom and also spices are grown.  The state is famous for its natural medicines aruvedic, with treatments being offered from cold remedies to rejuvenation treatments all with natural plant extracts.  Massage and yoga also feature heavily.

The climate is tropical, so hot all ear round with monsoon season after summer.  The hills offer protection from the heat, by offering a very temperate environment.

Backwater from government ferry to Allipey

Backwater

Festival complete with its own elephant procession at the rear.


Tea plantation being worked

Beautiful rolling hills of the tea tree plantation

Backwater creak

View through the tree onto a reservoir

Cardamom flower

Cardamom Plant
We started our trip in Cochin where we stayed at the port area, spent a great day doing a backwater cruise on a paddled boat and met up with Sandrines parents who spent 1 month with us around Kerala.  After Cochin we headed for the hills and spent several days touring hill stations, with tea tree plantations and cardamom and other spices being grown and cultivated in this rich landscape.

After a rather hectic 10 days hopping from place to place it was nice to head back to the beach and relax for a while do all the festive things and Prunelles 18th Bday!  First stop with Allepey then on to Varcala with its cliffs and beaches where we spent a very chilled pampered 15 days!!


Road between the backwater on the right and sea on the left.

Gypsie girls on the railway station platform

Our view onto the beach from the restaurant of the complex
Dolphins were often in the sea close to the beach.

Plenty of sea eagles, sometimes 30 at a time soaring around the cliffs

View of beach from north Cliff Varcala